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[personal profile] endlessrarities
Alas, I've concluded that I do indeed dwell in a barbarian nation.  While the rest of the nation used the Royal Wedding as an excuse for a grand old knees-up, the City of Glasgow commemorated the event by a drunken riot in Kelvingrove Park.  It wasn't the fault of the authorities:  what began as an unofficial 'celebration' eventually degenerated into a drink-fuelled fight wi' the polis.

Some things never change, then...

I avoided the wedding.  I was working (bah, humbug). 

I suppose Scotland gets the castles it deserves.  When I look at the Maschio Angioino, I can't help thinking of Linlithgow Palace.  Which fell down in the early 16th century when investment in its fabric ceased.  James VI had moved south to England, you see, and couldn't be bothered with the 'Auld Country'. 

I'm sure Scotland's late 15th century Renaissance Kings, James III and James IV, created residences in their time that rivalled Alphonso I's work at Naples.  Recent restorations at Stirling Castle have helped to illustrate just how magnificent Scotland's Renaissance past actually was, but what survives is just a pale shadow of what must have been here originally. 

Enough of the lamentations.  Here's some more views of the Maschio Angioino.  When you step into the courtyard, the interior is both grand and imposing:-


 
It's reminiscent of our 16th century palaces and big castles (like Caerlaverock, in Dumfries and Galloway) only on a bigger scale, and in a much state of preservation.  Though perhaps this is due as much to the favourable climate as to predation from the locals....

It's the details that really caught my eye, though.  THAT triumphal arch is a bit of a naff and tasteless addition to an austere medieval structure, perhaps, but it has some rather lovely touches.  And they scream out 'LATE MEDIEVAL!!!' in no uncertain terms, despite the Classical flavour of the triumphal arch itself.  Here's a carved stone panel:-


 
And the magnificent bronze doors, which have been damaged by artillery fire (while the castle was under seige, the French defenders allegedly accidentally fired a cannon, the shot from which is still embedded in the door).  This is a copy: the orginal doors are now held inside the castle itself, but this proved to be the better picture:-


 
Being a sucker for medieval knights, I particularly like these armoured figures with their splendidly caprisoned horses...

My helpful sourcebook for these posts, Naples: The Gold Guide, by Faiella, P, Pirozzi, A and Zaccaria, M (Bonechi, 2010) reveals a rather strange story about the castle:-

'The castle is surrounded by a long deep moat which used to be covered by the sea.  It is said that many prisoners were thrown into the moat where their bodies mysteriously disappeared.  After a series of inspections, a hole was discovered through which a crocodile used to enter the moat and devour the bodies of the unfortunate victims.  The huge reptile was killed and stuffed, and hung above one of the castle doorways where it remained until the mid-19th century.' (Faiella et. al. 2010, 29).

Nice.  James V had a lion at Stirling, and the Tower of London was famous for its zoo.  But I can't think of any castle in the UK which had its own reptilian waste disposal service in residence.  It would certainly have been a handy addition for any of the tinpot tyrants resident in south-west Scotland in the late medieval period...

So...  Unlike Scottish castles, Neopolitan castles have crocodiles.  They also have frescoes.  Just to prove it, here's a picture of one, located just inside the main entrance:-



 
Yes, I think I'm suffering from a severe case of castle envy... 
 

Date: 2011-04-30 05:39 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] puddleshark.livejournal.com
Now that's an impressive front door... Those horses are magnificent.

Date: 2011-04-30 06:05 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] endlessrarities.livejournal.com
You see? It might look naff from a distance, but close-up... It really has the WOW factor in bucket-loads.

Date: 2011-04-30 09:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] clairehawthorn.livejournal.com
That fresco underneath the archway is very impressive.....but then...what happened?
Surely not.....whitewash?

Date: 2011-04-30 09:23 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] endlessrarities.livejournal.com
They use a lot of whitewash in Italy...

We'll be seeing more of it in future posts. Much, much more...

Date: 2011-04-30 11:52 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] khiemtran.livejournal.com
The huge reptile was killed and stuffed, and hung above one of the castle doorways where it remained until the mid-19th century.

And then, presumably, the moat was suitably adorned with uneaten, decaying corpses, as had been previously been intended...

Date: 2011-05-01 07:50 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] endlessrarities.livejournal.com
I don't actually quite know when the crocodile-o-cide took place. Perhaps they decided to commute the sentences to life imprisonment to avoid the smell of decaying folk in the corpse.

Bleagh...

Date: 2011-05-01 12:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cmcmck.livejournal.com
Nice pics.

Having been bought up with a massive Norman castle, I have a liking for anything castle shaped! It'd probably directly to blame for my having fetched up as a military historian. :o)

Date: 2011-05-01 12:20 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cmcmck.livejournal.com
Oh and having been involved in the huge annual morris festival down here all weekend (I'm off again shortly) I too have managed to totally avoid the wasteful shennanigans of aristocratric privilege known as the royal wedding..........

Date: 2011-05-01 07:46 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] endlessrarities.livejournal.com
An annual morris festival? I bet that gives the Sorrento Good Friday procession a run for its money.

Date: 2011-05-01 08:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cmcmck.livejournal.com
Usually around a hundred sides of various traditions out over the weekend- it's pretty impressive what with the wakening of the Jack in the Green at dawn up at Kits Coty and so on as well!

Date: 2011-05-01 02:12 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] aulus-poliutos.livejournal.com
Duke Heinrich (Henry) the Lion of Saxony had a pet lion, too. And a gilded bronze one in his castle yard in Braunschweig which you can still see - well, you can see an ungilded replica because there would not be much gold left after some days; the original is in the museum.

Date: 2011-05-01 07:48 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] endlessrarities.livejournal.com
I can't help feeling sorry for the lions. James VI's 'pet' was confined in a pit in Stirling Castle and must have been demented.

And then there was the horrible story of the lions getting into the tiger cage at the Tower of London and ripping the poor tiger to death.

Evil times for big cats...

Date: 2011-05-02 01:20 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] aulus-poliutos.livejournal.com
Heinrich's lion obviously followed him around. There's a story that it wanted to try to get into the church during the funeral services for his dead master.

I wonder when Heinrich got the lion. It would have been cool if he already had the animal when he went into exile at the court of his father-in-law Henry II and took the lion with him.

Date: 2011-05-02 02:01 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] endlessrarities.livejournal.com
Sure beats keeping it isolated in a pit...

That story's a bit like St Hugh and his swan. A lion's a bit more appropriate for a king, though...

Date: 2011-05-02 04:43 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cmcmck.livejournal.com
We have a little stained glass repro of Big St Hugh's swan on our kitchen window. The swan gets a bad press in Hugh's vita 'cos it kept attacking the clerk who was writing it :o)

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