endlessrarities | Maschio Angioino

Alas, I've concluded that I do indeed dwell in a barbarian nation. While the rest of the nation used the Royal Wedding as an excuse for a grand old knees-up, the City of Glasgow commemorated the event by a drunken riot in Kelvingrove Park. It wasn't the fault of the authorities: what began as an unofficial 'celebration' eventually degenerated into a drink-fuelled fight wi' the polis.

Some things never change, then...

I avoided the wedding. I was working (bah, humbug).

I suppose Scotland gets the castles it deserves. When I look at the Maschio Angioino, I can't help thinking of Linlithgow Palace. Which fell down in the early 16th century when investment in its fabric ceased. James VI had moved south to England, you see, and couldn't be bothered with the 'Auld Country'.

I'm sure Scotland's late 15th century Renaissance Kings, James III and James IV, created residences in their time that rivalled Alphonso I's work at Naples. Recent restorations at Stirling Castle have helped to illustrate just how magnificent Scotland's Renaissance past actually was, but what survives is just a pale shadow of what must have been here originally.

Enough of the lamentations. Here's some more views of the Maschio Angioino. When you step into the courtyard, the interior is both grand and imposing:-

It's reminiscent of our 16th century palaces and big castles (like Caerlaverock, in Dumfries and Galloway) only on a bigger scale, and in a much state of preservation. Though perhaps this is due as much to the favourable climate as to predation from the locals....

It's the details that really caught my eye, though. THAT triumphal arch is a bit of a naff and tasteless addition to an austere medieval structure, perhaps, but it has some rather lovely touches. And they scream out 'LATE MEDIEVAL!!!' in no uncertain terms, despite the Classical flavour of the triumphal arch itself. Here's a carved stone panel:-

And the magnificent bronze doors, which have been damaged by artillery fire (while the castle was under seige, the French defenders allegedly accidentally fired a cannon, the shot from which is still embedded in the door). This is a copy: the orginal doors are now held inside the castle itself, but this proved to be the better picture:-

Being a sucker for medieval knights, I particularly like these armoured figures with their splendidly caprisoned horses...

My helpful sourcebook for these posts, Naples: The Gold Guide, by Faiella, P, Pirozzi, A and Zaccaria, M (Bonechi, 2010) reveals a rather strange story about the castle:-

'The castle is surrounded by a long deep moat which used to be covered by the sea. It is said that many prisoners were thrown into the moat where their bodies mysteriously disappeared. After a series of inspections, a hole was discovered through which a crocodile used to enter the moat and devour the bodies of the unfortunate victims. The huge reptile was killed and stuffed, and hung above one of the castle doorways where it remained until the mid-19th century.' (Faiella et. al. 2010, 29).

Nice. James V had a lion at Stirling, and the Tower of London was famous for its zoo. But I can't think of any castle in the UK which had its own reptilian waste disposal service in residence. It would certainly have been a handy addition for any of the tinpot tyrants resident in south-west Scotland in the late medieval period...

So... Unlike Scottish castles, Neopolitan castles have crocodiles. They also have frescoes. Just to prove it, here's a picture of one, located just inside the main entrance:-